critic on the critics thursdays

Over at the Coast, Lizzy Hill provides a piece on urban berry picking. HeraldSpurr hit Epicurious Morsels in the Hydrostone. I haven’t been there in a long time, I loved the brunch but it’s a little too small and crowded for my liking. Last time I was there for dinner, I asked the server if I could switch two starches on an entree. I don’t remember exactly what they were–I think maybe one was a risotto and the other a sweet potato mash. In any case, the server refused–she told me the Chef (who was also the owner) would not do that, as he created his dishes certain ways and that’s the only right way to eat them.

And indeed, chefs in great restaurants do indeed present a dish as a masterpiece, if you will. But refusing to switch a starch for a guest is both self indulgent and foolhardy–in this market, that restaurant, that chef?  Neither skilled enough nor famous enough, nor busy enough to refuse that simple request. Funny how sometimes not eating anything at all can leave the worst taste in one’s mouth, isn’t it?


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